Monday, September 29, 2008
Tips for Taking Your Kid Fishing by Brad Metzler
Taking your child fishing is a time honored tradition unparalleled by other childhood memories. Most fathers dream of fishing with their kids, relaxing and teaching them the patience and skill that it takes to reel in the big one. If you are considering taking your kid fishing for the first time, here are a few tips to ensure that you have a memorable trip. The first rule of fishing with your child is to make it a fun experience. Do not make promises that you cannot keep. Make sure that they are aware that it is possible to have a lot of fun, even if you do not catch anything. You can have a lot of fun out on the water, whether it is on a pier, in the grass or on a mini pontoon boat. Canoes and pontoon boats can be fun for a kid whether they actually fish or not. Allow your child to explore the water. Aquarium nets are great for catching tadpoles and minnows. Do not force your child to fish if they are too young to be interested for very long. Let them try to skip rocks and see what floats and what sinks. Be prepared when you go. Kids’ fishing poles are relatively inexpensive and often come with a small tackle box. Bring some different kinds of bait and let your child pick which ones they like. Using live bait is always a treat and usually an effective lure for just about any type of fish. Bring enough snacks and drinks to keep your kid going. Packing a picnic is a good idea. Kids also get a kick out of using leftover bread or lunchmeat as tackle. Use imaginative language and say things like, “I wonder if the fish will like to eat the same things we do.†Self-casting rods are fun for kids and they don’t tangle very easily. You can teach your child to cast in the yard before you go fishing if you would like. Remember to keep the mood light and don’t put any undue pressure on the child. Don’t forget to bring a camera with you on the trip! Be encouraging and give lots of praise. This is your chance to spend some uninterrupted quality time together. You can instill a lifelong love of fishing and the outdoors in your child during trips like this. Point out the importance of keeping the water clean for the fish. Talk about how beautiful and precious nature is and encourage them to care about their environment. If the goal is to really catch some fish, then you might consider a stock pond for your trip. Stock ponds are generally easy to fish and even an inexperienced child can actually catch a lot of fish. If you have the land, you might consider getting your own stock pond in your yard. Also, getting a fishing pontoon boat or fishing pontoon boat can make any fishing trip a real adventure no matter what your age!
BOAT ANCHORS & ANCHORING by Mike Hobson
BOAT ANCHORS & ANCHORING
Discover and learn about the latest anchors for today's boater. This newsletter describes some of the best anchors old and new. Some of the newer anchors on the market are pretty weird looking, so how do they stack up against the traditional anchors? All modern anchor designs are variations on the traditional types, the fisherman, Claw, Plow, and Fluke.
Anatomy of an Anchor
To get an idea of how each anchor type works we must know each of its parts and functions. The shank is the stem of the anchor in which direction is pulled to set (bury) the anchor. The crown connects the various parts of the modern anchor. The stock turns the anchor into an attitude that enables the flukes to dig into the sea bed. The optional tripping ring is used for tripping with a separate line, allowing the anchor to break out. The flukes will be buried into the seabed. The very tip of a fluke is sometimes called the bill.
Traditional Types of anchor
There are 6 main types of anchor. They are the Fisherman, the Claw or Bruce, the Plow or Plough, The Fluke, the Grapnel and Mushroom. Each of these families has many anchors that relate to the basic design principle. For example the Plow type named because it acts like a farmers plow, has the CQR and Delta which belong to this anchor family.
Fisherman
The fisherman is a traditional design and is often seen on the bows of old Sailing Ships like HMS Victory. The design is a non-burying type of marine anchor, and grabs rocks with one arm penetrating the seabed and the other standing proud. It has a good reputation for use in rock, kelp, and grass. However it’s holding power to weight ratio is among the worst of all anchor types. The primary weakness of the anchor design is its ability to foul the cable over changing tides. One of the Fisherman’s arms can catch the anchor Rhode or cable and accidentally trip the anchor. It is difficult to handle and bring aboard without scarring the topsides and does not stow well in an anchor roller.
The Fisherman is best suited for rocks, and kelp bottoms, but not good holding in sand or mud. The Fisherman has arms which lodges themselves in a rock bed, or as in grass and kelp, the arms allow the anchor to penetrate through the kelp.
Modern examples of fisherman type anchors include; Luke Storm Anchor, kedge and Navy
Bruce/Claw
The Bruce anchor was designed by Peter Bruce back in the 1970's. The Bruce also known as the Claw. Claw-types set quickly in most sea beds and although not an articulated design, they have the reputation of not breaking out with pull direction, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force. They offer a fairly low holding power to weight ratio and generally have to be over-sized to compete with other types. On the other hand they perform relatively well with low rode scopes and set fairly reliably. The traditional Claw anchor has rounded flukes. The Claw Anchor showed poor performance in the many anchor tests, which are attributed to the anchor failing to dig in, due to the rounded flukes. The Rocna Spade and Supreme anchors faired much better and many anchor tests. The Rocna Spade and Supreme anchors and are among a new breed of anchor with roll bars and/or pointed tips.
Claw anchors are best suited for sand and muddy bottoms where the design can dig in. Claw type’s boat anchors have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and grass, tending to float over weed and kelp rather than digging in.
Modern examples of claw type anchors include; Bruce, Claw, Rocna, Spade, and Supreme
Plow or Plough
The plows holding power over a wide variety of bottom types, makes it a top choice of cruising boaters, named for its similarity to the farmers plow. When dropped in the water, a plow often lands on its side. However when pulled by the ground tackle, the Plow buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position. Many manufacturers produce a plough-style design, all based on or direct copies of the original CQR the Coastal Quick Release. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out, and also arranged to force the point of the plough into the bottom if the anchor when it lands on its side. The more recent Delta uses an unhinged shank and a plough with specific angles to develop slightly superior performance. Owing to the use of lead or other dedicated tip-weight, the plough is heavier than average for the amount of resistance developed, and may take a slightly longer pull to set thoroughly.
Recommended for bottom surface; Works well on many bottom surface types. Sand, mud, and kelp grass.
Modern examples of Plow type anchors include; Delta, CQR Plow or Plough
Fluke
The fluke style anchor, named due to its large flukes, uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat surfaces are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom (on some designs the flukes angle can be optimized depending on the bottom type.) The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop an amazing amount of resistance. Its light weight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store; some anchor rollers and hawse pipes can accommodate a fluke-style anchor. A few high-performance designs are available, such as the Fortress, which are lighter in weight for a given area and in tests have shown better than average results. Once set, the fluke anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag. The fluke is recommended for sand and muddy bottom surfaces. The fluke anchor has difficulty penetrating kelp and weed-covered bottoms, as well as rocky and particularly hard sand or clay bottoms. If there is much current or the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor it may float over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a wing.
Examples of Fluke Anchor types; Fortress Danforth and Guardian
Grapnel
The grapnel style is simple to design and build. The design is a non-burying variety, with one or more tines digging in and the remainder above the seabed. In coral it is often able to set quickly by hooking into the structure. A grapnel is often quite light, and used aboard smaller boats where its weight makes it relatively easy to bring aboard. The Grapnel is sometimes difficult to retrieve
Grapnels rarely have enough fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay, or mud. It is not unknown for the anchor to foul on its own rode, like the fisherman, or to foul the tines with refuse from the bottom, preventing it from digging in. It is quite possible for this anchor to find such a good hook that, without a trip line, it is impossible to retrieve.
Mushroom Anchors
Mushroom anchors work best in soft muddy bottoms, where they can create suction which can be difficult to break. Recommended for small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats.
Conclusion I read somewhere a question from a new boater who asked if they needed an anchor. The answer is yes you do its required by law in many places and it can be one of the first pieces of emergency equipment you'll need. Whether you sail up a river, or cross oceans an anchor is an essential piece of gear. When choosing which anchor is best for you, consider the important factors are reliability to set, holding power, veering and damage/storing. Which bottom surface do you need your anchor to work in? How big a boat are you operating? Are you fishing or riding out a storm? This article will give you a guide to the various types of anchor old and new. Which types of anchor work in which bottom surface, is important to you. The good news is that the newer anchor technology appears to be working and from the anchor tests we looked at the new designs outperformed the tradition types.
In part 2 of anchoring, we provide information on ground tackle & anchoring techniques to help you stay anchored in challenging conditions.
Discover and learn about the latest anchors for today's boater. This newsletter describes some of the best anchors old and new. Some of the newer anchors on the market are pretty weird looking, so how do they stack up against the traditional anchors? All modern anchor designs are variations on the traditional types, the fisherman, Claw, Plow, and Fluke.
Anatomy of an Anchor
To get an idea of how each anchor type works we must know each of its parts and functions. The shank is the stem of the anchor in which direction is pulled to set (bury) the anchor. The crown connects the various parts of the modern anchor. The stock turns the anchor into an attitude that enables the flukes to dig into the sea bed. The optional tripping ring is used for tripping with a separate line, allowing the anchor to break out. The flukes will be buried into the seabed. The very tip of a fluke is sometimes called the bill.
Traditional Types of anchor
There are 6 main types of anchor. They are the Fisherman, the Claw or Bruce, the Plow or Plough, The Fluke, the Grapnel and Mushroom. Each of these families has many anchors that relate to the basic design principle. For example the Plow type named because it acts like a farmers plow, has the CQR and Delta which belong to this anchor family.
Fisherman
The fisherman is a traditional design and is often seen on the bows of old Sailing Ships like HMS Victory. The design is a non-burying type of marine anchor, and grabs rocks with one arm penetrating the seabed and the other standing proud. It has a good reputation for use in rock, kelp, and grass. However it’s holding power to weight ratio is among the worst of all anchor types. The primary weakness of the anchor design is its ability to foul the cable over changing tides. One of the Fisherman’s arms can catch the anchor Rhode or cable and accidentally trip the anchor. It is difficult to handle and bring aboard without scarring the topsides and does not stow well in an anchor roller.
The Fisherman is best suited for rocks, and kelp bottoms, but not good holding in sand or mud. The Fisherman has arms which lodges themselves in a rock bed, or as in grass and kelp, the arms allow the anchor to penetrate through the kelp.
Modern examples of fisherman type anchors include; Luke Storm Anchor, kedge and Navy
Bruce/Claw
The Bruce anchor was designed by Peter Bruce back in the 1970's. The Bruce also known as the Claw. Claw-types set quickly in most sea beds and although not an articulated design, they have the reputation of not breaking out with pull direction, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force. They offer a fairly low holding power to weight ratio and generally have to be over-sized to compete with other types. On the other hand they perform relatively well with low rode scopes and set fairly reliably. The traditional Claw anchor has rounded flukes. The Claw Anchor showed poor performance in the many anchor tests, which are attributed to the anchor failing to dig in, due to the rounded flukes. The Rocna Spade and Supreme anchors faired much better and many anchor tests. The Rocna Spade and Supreme anchors and are among a new breed of anchor with roll bars and/or pointed tips.
Claw anchors are best suited for sand and muddy bottoms where the design can dig in. Claw type’s boat anchors have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and grass, tending to float over weed and kelp rather than digging in.
Modern examples of claw type anchors include; Bruce, Claw, Rocna, Spade, and Supreme
Plow or Plough
The plows holding power over a wide variety of bottom types, makes it a top choice of cruising boaters, named for its similarity to the farmers plow. When dropped in the water, a plow often lands on its side. However when pulled by the ground tackle, the Plow buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position. Many manufacturers produce a plough-style design, all based on or direct copies of the original CQR the Coastal Quick Release. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out, and also arranged to force the point of the plough into the bottom if the anchor when it lands on its side. The more recent Delta uses an unhinged shank and a plough with specific angles to develop slightly superior performance. Owing to the use of lead or other dedicated tip-weight, the plough is heavier than average for the amount of resistance developed, and may take a slightly longer pull to set thoroughly.
Recommended for bottom surface; Works well on many bottom surface types. Sand, mud, and kelp grass.
Modern examples of Plow type anchors include; Delta, CQR Plow or Plough
Fluke
The fluke style anchor, named due to its large flukes, uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat surfaces are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom (on some designs the flukes angle can be optimized depending on the bottom type.) The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop an amazing amount of resistance. Its light weight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store; some anchor rollers and hawse pipes can accommodate a fluke-style anchor. A few high-performance designs are available, such as the Fortress, which are lighter in weight for a given area and in tests have shown better than average results. Once set, the fluke anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag. The fluke is recommended for sand and muddy bottom surfaces. The fluke anchor has difficulty penetrating kelp and weed-covered bottoms, as well as rocky and particularly hard sand or clay bottoms. If there is much current or the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor it may float over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a wing.
Examples of Fluke Anchor types; Fortress Danforth and Guardian
Grapnel
The grapnel style is simple to design and build. The design is a non-burying variety, with one or more tines digging in and the remainder above the seabed. In coral it is often able to set quickly by hooking into the structure. A grapnel is often quite light, and used aboard smaller boats where its weight makes it relatively easy to bring aboard. The Grapnel is sometimes difficult to retrieve
Grapnels rarely have enough fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay, or mud. It is not unknown for the anchor to foul on its own rode, like the fisherman, or to foul the tines with refuse from the bottom, preventing it from digging in. It is quite possible for this anchor to find such a good hook that, without a trip line, it is impossible to retrieve.
Mushroom Anchors
Mushroom anchors work best in soft muddy bottoms, where they can create suction which can be difficult to break. Recommended for small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats.
Conclusion I read somewhere a question from a new boater who asked if they needed an anchor. The answer is yes you do its required by law in many places and it can be one of the first pieces of emergency equipment you'll need. Whether you sail up a river, or cross oceans an anchor is an essential piece of gear. When choosing which anchor is best for you, consider the important factors are reliability to set, holding power, veering and damage/storing. Which bottom surface do you need your anchor to work in? How big a boat are you operating? Are you fishing or riding out a storm? This article will give you a guide to the various types of anchor old and new. Which types of anchor work in which bottom surface, is important to you. The good news is that the newer anchor technology appears to be working and from the anchor tests we looked at the new designs outperformed the tradition types.
In part 2 of anchoring, we provide information on ground tackle & anchoring techniques to help you stay anchored in challenging conditions.
Tips To Run A Good Tackle Shop by Mike Selvon
Retired couples may wish to find a sideline that can keep them busy and provide some income for their later years. Opening a tackle shop may be just the answer they are looking for. Good bait shops are needed in every area that has access to fishing in rivers or lakes, and even coastal towns.
The best kind of bait shop to open is the kind that becomes a hangout of sorts for the local fishermen. Small towns where everyone knows everybody else are the perfect place for this kind of shop. It provides a place for the fishermen to start their day and end it as well.
If a fishing tackle shop is the type of business that you choose to open, then in addition to the obvious fishing tackle and bait that you will need to stock, you should also consider installing a kitchen and acquiring a liquor license. For those fishermen who wish to meet up before heading out to the lake in the morning, you could profit greatly by providing them a place to grab some breakfast and coffee and socialize before setting out.
The liquor license would come in handy in two ways. Number one, many fishermen feel that there is nothing better than grabbing a case of beer and heading for the lake for some fishing and fun. Number two, when the fishermen come back in the evening, you could profit by giving them a place to stop in, show off their catches for the day and grab a cool pint before heading home for the night.
Local fishermen will count on your tackle shop to provide them with minnows, earthworms, maggots and other live bait. They may also look for artificial bait. A selection of quality tackle will be important as well. You will need rods, reels, fishing line, floats, lures and sinkers.
Be sure that the fishermen in your area can get a fishing license from you, as well as boat registrations and hunting licenses. You may also want to get certified to be a hunting check station. Catering to the local fishing hunting enthusiasts will increase revenue.
Your bait and tackle shop will be successful if you learn the value of variety and change. You should rotate your stock to match the season and the activity that is occurring during that particular time of year. You must be willing to keep your store open for long hours if you expect to make any kind of a profit from it. Opening before dawn when the fishermen are just starting out, and closing after dark once the fishermen have returned will be the key to a successful tackle store operation.
The best kind of bait shop to open is the kind that becomes a hangout of sorts for the local fishermen. Small towns where everyone knows everybody else are the perfect place for this kind of shop. It provides a place for the fishermen to start their day and end it as well.
If a fishing tackle shop is the type of business that you choose to open, then in addition to the obvious fishing tackle and bait that you will need to stock, you should also consider installing a kitchen and acquiring a liquor license. For those fishermen who wish to meet up before heading out to the lake in the morning, you could profit greatly by providing them a place to grab some breakfast and coffee and socialize before setting out.
The liquor license would come in handy in two ways. Number one, many fishermen feel that there is nothing better than grabbing a case of beer and heading for the lake for some fishing and fun. Number two, when the fishermen come back in the evening, you could profit by giving them a place to stop in, show off their catches for the day and grab a cool pint before heading home for the night.
Local fishermen will count on your tackle shop to provide them with minnows, earthworms, maggots and other live bait. They may also look for artificial bait. A selection of quality tackle will be important as well. You will need rods, reels, fishing line, floats, lures and sinkers.
Be sure that the fishermen in your area can get a fishing license from you, as well as boat registrations and hunting licenses. You may also want to get certified to be a hunting check station. Catering to the local fishing hunting enthusiasts will increase revenue.
Your bait and tackle shop will be successful if you learn the value of variety and change. You should rotate your stock to match the season and the activity that is occurring during that particular time of year. You must be willing to keep your store open for long hours if you expect to make any kind of a profit from it. Opening before dawn when the fishermen are just starting out, and closing after dark once the fishermen have returned will be the key to a successful tackle store operation.
Tips To Run A Good Tackle Shop by Mike Selvon
Retired couples may wish to find a sideline that can keep them busy and provide some income for their later years. Opening a tackle shop may be just the answer they are looking for. Good bait shops are needed in every area that has access to fishing in rivers or lakes, and even coastal towns.
The best kind of bait shop to open is the kind that becomes a hangout of sorts for the local fishermen. Small towns where everyone knows everybody else are the perfect place for this kind of shop. It provides a place for the fishermen to start their day and end it as well.
If a fishing tackle shop is the type of business that you choose to open, then in addition to the obvious fishing tackle and bait that you will need to stock, you should also consider installing a kitchen and acquiring a liquor license. For those fishermen who wish to meet up before heading out to the lake in the morning, you could profit greatly by providing them a place to grab some breakfast and coffee and socialize before setting out.
The liquor license would come in handy in two ways. Number one, many fishermen feel that there is nothing better than grabbing a case of beer and heading for the lake for some fishing and fun. Number two, when the fishermen come back in the evening, you could profit by giving them a place to stop in, show off their catches for the day and grab a cool pint before heading home for the night.
Local fishermen will count on your tackle shop to provide them with minnows, earthworms, maggots and other live bait. They may also look for artificial bait. A selection of quality tackle will be important as well. You will need rods, reels, fishing line, floats, lures and sinkers.
Be sure that the fishermen in your area can get a fishing license from you, as well as boat registrations and hunting licenses. You may also want to get certified to be a hunting check station. Catering to the local fishing hunting enthusiasts will increase revenue.
Your bait and tackle shop will be successful if you learn the value of variety and change. You should rotate your stock to match the season and the activity that is occurring during that particular time of year. You must be willing to keep your store open for long hours if you expect to make any kind of a profit from it. Opening before dawn when the fishermen are just starting out, and closing after dark once the fishermen have returned will be the key to a successful tackle store operation.
The best kind of bait shop to open is the kind that becomes a hangout of sorts for the local fishermen. Small towns where everyone knows everybody else are the perfect place for this kind of shop. It provides a place for the fishermen to start their day and end it as well.
If a fishing tackle shop is the type of business that you choose to open, then in addition to the obvious fishing tackle and bait that you will need to stock, you should also consider installing a kitchen and acquiring a liquor license. For those fishermen who wish to meet up before heading out to the lake in the morning, you could profit greatly by providing them a place to grab some breakfast and coffee and socialize before setting out.
The liquor license would come in handy in two ways. Number one, many fishermen feel that there is nothing better than grabbing a case of beer and heading for the lake for some fishing and fun. Number two, when the fishermen come back in the evening, you could profit by giving them a place to stop in, show off their catches for the day and grab a cool pint before heading home for the night.
Local fishermen will count on your tackle shop to provide them with minnows, earthworms, maggots and other live bait. They may also look for artificial bait. A selection of quality tackle will be important as well. You will need rods, reels, fishing line, floats, lures and sinkers.
Be sure that the fishermen in your area can get a fishing license from you, as well as boat registrations and hunting licenses. You may also want to get certified to be a hunting check station. Catering to the local fishing hunting enthusiasts will increase revenue.
Your bait and tackle shop will be successful if you learn the value of variety and change. You should rotate your stock to match the season and the activity that is occurring during that particular time of year. You must be willing to keep your store open for long hours if you expect to make any kind of a profit from it. Opening before dawn when the fishermen are just starting out, and closing after dark once the fishermen have returned will be the key to a successful tackle store operation.
Sea Fishing Tackle - Heavy Thinking by Frazer
We all have used lead weights of different shapes and sizes and yet many Sea Anglers don't know the proper use for them, they just grab any old weight out of the tackle box and sling it out. This is a big mistake as you are not increasing your chances of catching. In this article I will go through some basic leads and their uses and also ways to improve your catch rate!
The Designs
Starting with the basic "Beach Bomb Lead" or known as a Pear Lead. This fishing weight is used by a lot of anglers it's fairly aerodynamic and has smooth sides and has multiple uses. Most common use is for sticking on the end of a set of feathers in the summer! This style also has the great advantage of not holding ground or gripping. When bottom fishing with a basic ledger rig from a pier or beach this lead can be one of the best leads for covering ground. Covering ground by means of not having static bait pinned to the sea bed whilst you wait for the fish to pass! By allowing your bait to move along the sea bead it will drop into gully's or sand formations that you can't see, this is where fish hold tight too, normally because its where food deposits and easy snacks end up due to the currents or underwater features.
The classic Grip Lead is the complete opposite to a beach bomb because it comes with grip wires which dig into the sea bed. There are a few variations of the "Grip Lead" you have Standard, Long Tail, Short Tail, Long Wire, Softy and Breakout but they all do the same job. These are great when you want to hold ground especially when there is a strong tide and you want to pin your bait down next to a feature or stop your rig getting dragged into a snag! A good size for a grip lead would be 3-4oz however when I went on a fishing week in the Isle of Scilly even a 7oz+ lead won't hold the bottom there due to vast amounts of water pushing through the islands, so remember to take a good selection of weights with you, especially if you have never fished the venue before.
Watch Lead or Clock Leads. It's the lead weight you get with a crab line when you were a child, yes they are used for crab lines however they are fantastic leads for anglers that like to target Flatfish. For Estuary fishing and Beach fishing this lead is a good choice to use as it is a fairly flat lead and partially grips the sea bed with its lead bumps. The bumps provide just enough resistance to guide your rig on the bottom but also to stir up the sandy seabed attracting curious bottom dwelling fish. With this lead design you will have more control than the Beach Bomb method however it won't cover the ground as quickly which can be an advantage and a disadvantage depending on your methods. Also there are leads that are very close to the watch leads in their uses. These are the Breakaway Flattie Leads with built in Impact Bait Clips, Coffin Leads and Star Leads which look like a medieval club.
Egg Leads, Bullet Leads, Ball Leads! Most anglers refer to them as Float Leads; it's a simple weight with a drilled center, they can be used as said before with Sea Floats but also they are very handy for extra weight when lure fishing by placing them behind a trace line or they can be used for basic ledgering for Wrasse when you just need that little extra weight. I always have a selection of egg leads ranging from 1-3oz which covers most needs when I'm out fishing new marks "very handy". The great advantage with these is they are probably the cheapest lead weight on the market so if you lose some it's not a problem!
Thinking outside the lead box!
Here are some useful tips for lead weights that I have picked up over the years and recently.
Paint the leads
That's right paint the leads a colour of your choice with a can of spray! Some angler's recon that painting the lead acts like an attractor or lure which they believe helps the fish locate the bait. A method that is defiantly worth trying out.
Soft baits at range
There is a lead design which some of you may have already used or have heard of, it's the new "Dvice", a hook bait delivery capsule with the lead built in. This is becoming a popular choice for anglers around the UK. We sell them here at Monster Fishing under Rig Components or the Lead Weight Section.
Dipping
Some anglers dip there lead weights in Rag worm or Lug worm oils that you can get on the market as a attractant and then place the weights in the freezer, they repeat the process until they have built up two or three layers of frozen oil around the lead. Bit like dipping a candle. Then they place their lead weights into a thermos flask to take to the venue. The idea is that when the lead is cast out with your rig attached of course, the oil defrosts under your rig thus releasing the oily scent trail which fish lock onto to locate your bait quicker. Maybe worth a try!
Conclusion
Next time you walk into you tackle shop or purchase tackle online, take the time to think about what lead weights you really need and how they could improve your chances. Yes there are no hard and fast rules about choosing leads but each lead weight design has its own special features which can be tailored into your individual fishing style and needs.
The Designs
Starting with the basic "Beach Bomb Lead" or known as a Pear Lead. This fishing weight is used by a lot of anglers it's fairly aerodynamic and has smooth sides and has multiple uses. Most common use is for sticking on the end of a set of feathers in the summer! This style also has the great advantage of not holding ground or gripping. When bottom fishing with a basic ledger rig from a pier or beach this lead can be one of the best leads for covering ground. Covering ground by means of not having static bait pinned to the sea bed whilst you wait for the fish to pass! By allowing your bait to move along the sea bead it will drop into gully's or sand formations that you can't see, this is where fish hold tight too, normally because its where food deposits and easy snacks end up due to the currents or underwater features.
The classic Grip Lead is the complete opposite to a beach bomb because it comes with grip wires which dig into the sea bed. There are a few variations of the "Grip Lead" you have Standard, Long Tail, Short Tail, Long Wire, Softy and Breakout but they all do the same job. These are great when you want to hold ground especially when there is a strong tide and you want to pin your bait down next to a feature or stop your rig getting dragged into a snag! A good size for a grip lead would be 3-4oz however when I went on a fishing week in the Isle of Scilly even a 7oz+ lead won't hold the bottom there due to vast amounts of water pushing through the islands, so remember to take a good selection of weights with you, especially if you have never fished the venue before.
Watch Lead or Clock Leads. It's the lead weight you get with a crab line when you were a child, yes they are used for crab lines however they are fantastic leads for anglers that like to target Flatfish. For Estuary fishing and Beach fishing this lead is a good choice to use as it is a fairly flat lead and partially grips the sea bed with its lead bumps. The bumps provide just enough resistance to guide your rig on the bottom but also to stir up the sandy seabed attracting curious bottom dwelling fish. With this lead design you will have more control than the Beach Bomb method however it won't cover the ground as quickly which can be an advantage and a disadvantage depending on your methods. Also there are leads that are very close to the watch leads in their uses. These are the Breakaway Flattie Leads with built in Impact Bait Clips, Coffin Leads and Star Leads which look like a medieval club.
Egg Leads, Bullet Leads, Ball Leads! Most anglers refer to them as Float Leads; it's a simple weight with a drilled center, they can be used as said before with Sea Floats but also they are very handy for extra weight when lure fishing by placing them behind a trace line or they can be used for basic ledgering for Wrasse when you just need that little extra weight. I always have a selection of egg leads ranging from 1-3oz which covers most needs when I'm out fishing new marks "very handy". The great advantage with these is they are probably the cheapest lead weight on the market so if you lose some it's not a problem!
Thinking outside the lead box!
Here are some useful tips for lead weights that I have picked up over the years and recently.
Paint the leads
That's right paint the leads a colour of your choice with a can of spray! Some angler's recon that painting the lead acts like an attractor or lure which they believe helps the fish locate the bait. A method that is defiantly worth trying out.
Soft baits at range
There is a lead design which some of you may have already used or have heard of, it's the new "Dvice", a hook bait delivery capsule with the lead built in. This is becoming a popular choice for anglers around the UK. We sell them here at Monster Fishing under Rig Components or the Lead Weight Section.
Dipping
Some anglers dip there lead weights in Rag worm or Lug worm oils that you can get on the market as a attractant and then place the weights in the freezer, they repeat the process until they have built up two or three layers of frozen oil around the lead. Bit like dipping a candle. Then they place their lead weights into a thermos flask to take to the venue. The idea is that when the lead is cast out with your rig attached of course, the oil defrosts under your rig thus releasing the oily scent trail which fish lock onto to locate your bait quicker. Maybe worth a try!
Conclusion
Next time you walk into you tackle shop or purchase tackle online, take the time to think about what lead weights you really need and how they could improve your chances. Yes there are no hard and fast rules about choosing leads but each lead weight design has its own special features which can be tailored into your individual fishing style and needs.
Heavy Thinking- Sea Fishing Leads by Frazer
We all have used lead weights of different shapes and sizes and yet many Sea Anglers don't know the proper use for them, they just grab any old weight out of the tackle box and sling it out. This is a big mistake as you are not increasing your chances of catching. In this article I will go through some basic leads and their uses and also ways to improve your catch rate!
The Designs
Starting with the basic "Beach Bomb Lead" or known as a Pear Lead. This fishing weight is used by a lot of anglers it's fairly aerodynamic and has smooth sides and has multiple uses. Most common use is for sticking on the end of a set of feathers in the summer! This style also has the great advantage of not holding ground or gripping. When bottom fishing with a basic ledger rig from a pier or beach this lead can be one of the best leads for covering ground. Covering ground by means of not having static bait pinned to the sea bed whilst you wait for the fish to pass! By allowing your bait to move along the sea bead it will drop into gully's or sand formations that you can't see, this is where fish hold tight too, normally because its where food deposits and easy snacks end up due to the currents or underwater features.
The classic Grip Lead is the complete opposite to a beach bomb because it comes with grip wires which dig into the sea bed. There are a few variations of the "Grip Lead" you have Standard, Long Tail, Short Tail, Long Wire, Softy and Breakout but they all do the same job. These are great when you want to hold ground especially when there is a strong tide and you want to pin your bait down next to a feature or stop your rig getting dragged into a snag! A good size for a grip lead would be 3-4oz however when I went on a fishing week in the Isle of Scilly even a 7oz+ lead won't hold the bottom there due to vast amounts of water pushing through the islands, so remember to take a good selection of weights with you, especially if you have never fished the venue before.
Watch Lead or Clock Leads. It's the lead weight you get with a crab line when you were a child, yes they are used for crab lines however they are fantastic leads for anglers that like to target Flatfish. For Estuary fishing and Beach fishing this lead is a good choice to use as it is a fairly flat lead and partially grips the sea bed with its lead bumps. The bumps provide just enough resistance to guide your rig on the bottom but also to stir up the sandy seabed attracting curious bottom dwelling fish. With this lead design you will have more control than the Beach Bomb method however it won't cover the ground as quickly which can be an advantage and a disadvantage depending on your methods. Also there are leads that are very close to the watch leads in their uses. These are the Breakaway Flattie Leads with built in Impact Bait Clips, Coffin Leads and Star Leads which look like a medieval club.
Egg Leads, Bullet Leads, Ball Leads! Most anglers refer to them as Float Leads; it's a simple weight with a drilled center, they can be used as said before with Sea Floats but also they are very handy for extra weight when lure fishing by placing them behind a trace line or they can be used for basic ledgering for Wrasse when you just need that little extra weight. I always have a selection of egg leads ranging from 1-3oz which covers most needs when I'm out fishing new marks "very handy". The great advantage with these is they are probably the cheapest lead weight on the market so if you lose some it's not a problem!
Thinking outside the lead box!
Here are some useful tips for lead weights that I have picked up over the years and recently.
Paint the leads
That's right paint the leads a colour of your choice with a can of spray! Some angler's recon that painting the lead acts like an attractor or lure which they believe helps the fish locate the bait. A method that is defiantly worth trying out.
Soft baits at range
There is a lead design which some of you may have already used or have heard of, it's the new "Dvice", a hook bait delivery capsule with the lead built in. This is becoming a popular choice for anglers around the UK. We sell them here at Monster Fishing under Rig Components or the Lead Weight Section.
Dipping
Some anglers dip there lead weights in Rag worm or Lug worm oils that you can get on the market as a attractant and then place the weights in the freezer, they repeat the process until they have built up two or three layers of frozen oil around the lead. Bit like dipping a candle. Then they place their lead weights into a thermos flask to take to the venue. The idea is that when the lead is cast out with your rig attached of course, the oil defrosts under your rig thus releasing the oily scent trail which fish lock onto to locate your bait quicker. Maybe worth a try!
Conclusion
Next time you walk into you tackle shop or purchase tackle online, take the time to think about what lead weights you really need and how they could improve your chances. Yes there are no hard and fast rules about choosing leads but each lead weight design has its own special features which can be tailored into your individual fishing style and needs.
The Designs
Starting with the basic "Beach Bomb Lead" or known as a Pear Lead. This fishing weight is used by a lot of anglers it's fairly aerodynamic and has smooth sides and has multiple uses. Most common use is for sticking on the end of a set of feathers in the summer! This style also has the great advantage of not holding ground or gripping. When bottom fishing with a basic ledger rig from a pier or beach this lead can be one of the best leads for covering ground. Covering ground by means of not having static bait pinned to the sea bed whilst you wait for the fish to pass! By allowing your bait to move along the sea bead it will drop into gully's or sand formations that you can't see, this is where fish hold tight too, normally because its where food deposits and easy snacks end up due to the currents or underwater features.
The classic Grip Lead is the complete opposite to a beach bomb because it comes with grip wires which dig into the sea bed. There are a few variations of the "Grip Lead" you have Standard, Long Tail, Short Tail, Long Wire, Softy and Breakout but they all do the same job. These are great when you want to hold ground especially when there is a strong tide and you want to pin your bait down next to a feature or stop your rig getting dragged into a snag! A good size for a grip lead would be 3-4oz however when I went on a fishing week in the Isle of Scilly even a 7oz+ lead won't hold the bottom there due to vast amounts of water pushing through the islands, so remember to take a good selection of weights with you, especially if you have never fished the venue before.
Watch Lead or Clock Leads. It's the lead weight you get with a crab line when you were a child, yes they are used for crab lines however they are fantastic leads for anglers that like to target Flatfish. For Estuary fishing and Beach fishing this lead is a good choice to use as it is a fairly flat lead and partially grips the sea bed with its lead bumps. The bumps provide just enough resistance to guide your rig on the bottom but also to stir up the sandy seabed attracting curious bottom dwelling fish. With this lead design you will have more control than the Beach Bomb method however it won't cover the ground as quickly which can be an advantage and a disadvantage depending on your methods. Also there are leads that are very close to the watch leads in their uses. These are the Breakaway Flattie Leads with built in Impact Bait Clips, Coffin Leads and Star Leads which look like a medieval club.
Egg Leads, Bullet Leads, Ball Leads! Most anglers refer to them as Float Leads; it's a simple weight with a drilled center, they can be used as said before with Sea Floats but also they are very handy for extra weight when lure fishing by placing them behind a trace line or they can be used for basic ledgering for Wrasse when you just need that little extra weight. I always have a selection of egg leads ranging from 1-3oz which covers most needs when I'm out fishing new marks "very handy". The great advantage with these is they are probably the cheapest lead weight on the market so if you lose some it's not a problem!
Thinking outside the lead box!
Here are some useful tips for lead weights that I have picked up over the years and recently.
Paint the leads
That's right paint the leads a colour of your choice with a can of spray! Some angler's recon that painting the lead acts like an attractor or lure which they believe helps the fish locate the bait. A method that is defiantly worth trying out.
Soft baits at range
There is a lead design which some of you may have already used or have heard of, it's the new "Dvice", a hook bait delivery capsule with the lead built in. This is becoming a popular choice for anglers around the UK. We sell them here at Monster Fishing under Rig Components or the Lead Weight Section.
Dipping
Some anglers dip there lead weights in Rag worm or Lug worm oils that you can get on the market as a attractant and then place the weights in the freezer, they repeat the process until they have built up two or three layers of frozen oil around the lead. Bit like dipping a candle. Then they place their lead weights into a thermos flask to take to the venue. The idea is that when the lead is cast out with your rig attached of course, the oil defrosts under your rig thus releasing the oily scent trail which fish lock onto to locate your bait quicker. Maybe worth a try!
Conclusion
Next time you walk into you tackle shop or purchase tackle online, take the time to think about what lead weights you really need and how they could improve your chances. Yes there are no hard and fast rules about choosing leads but each lead weight design has its own special features which can be tailored into your individual fishing style and needs.
Come fishing in Devon, Enjoy Devon fishing holidays, stay in stunning holiday cottages and fishing, selfcatering cottages and fishing
Fishing Holidays Devon Tale Or no good turn goes unpunished Come fishing in Devon, Enjoy Devon fishing holidays, stay in stunning holiday cottages and fishing, selfcatering cottages and fishing, fishing holidays Devon. As the end of the day approached and the sun thought about making its lazy way to bed. The birds were idly stretching out their feathers and lounging about, singing their last few twitters of the day. Even the insects were tiring of their incessant buzzing, buzzing that turned to buzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. The sun arced across the holiday cottages and fishing became the most important task of the day. Darren decided the best way to end a British summers day, no it wasn't raining, was to tackle up and spend a few pleasant hours experiencing Devon fishing holidays on Mirror Lake. What a perfect way to shrug off the rigours of the day, rest those tired muscles and driiiiiiiiift into another world. Recharge those batteries with Fishing in Devon power! Darren is keen to improve his personal best, 18 lb at the moment, not at all shabby, although he has always said that it's the sport that really gives the pleasure and many smaller fish can fight just as hard and provide as much, maybe more sport than some of the larger fish. But there is still that little nagging feeling in the back of the brain, that longing, the unfulfilled dream that stirs him on to pursue the larger stock that the selfcatering cottages and fishing centre has to offer. Dreams of Queenie 27 + pounds of Capacious Carp, his Moby Dick, the whirring of the reel as it screams around, spewing line out towards his catch. But then it will be, when it will be. Darren hasn't caught Queenie yet, but skill will out in the end. He has his dreams of pub speak down the local, when you open your arms as wide as they will go, your fellow drinkers cry "how big!" then tales of the ones that got away and the ones that didn't, all lubricated by a particularly nice Theakstons Old Peculiar. This evening Darren was joined by a young lad at the lakeside, Robert McCloud, he was only versed in the sport of sea fishing, you know that's when you stick a shark on an anchor, attach it to a 100 tonne cable, throw it over the side of the boat and winch it up every once in a while, to see if you have caught anything. If you catch anymore than 3 fish the European fishing police won't let the Brixham fishing boats out for 6 months. Robert and Darren were chatting about things fishing, enjoying the evening air, the plaintive call of a skylark and generally putting the world to rights, when Darren saw that quiver of the float. Was it about to happen? were man and fish about to do battle? A hush descended on the two fisherman who immediately, mutually understood the importance of the event, another little bobble of the float, were they into the fish or was it just sucking on the bait, was it looking up through the water at them, teasing them, cocking a snook, waving a defiant fin. Then the float plunges, ripples of water fan out as if crying an early warning, Darren strikes, he's on the fish, it tears off across the lake, the rod bends to take the strain and the line creaks, Darren starts the sport of bringing it in. Now Darren is a selfless soul, full of the milk of human kindness, or is that the Theakstons again? He knows how much fun Robert can have coarse fishing, what a perfect time to introduce another youngster to its finesse over the bludgeoning tactics of Sea fishing. He hands over the tackle to Robert and talks him through the delights of playing the fish in, trying to keep the line tight keeping the barbless hook engaged, drawing the fish in, slowly but surely, gently does it, slowly slowly catchee monkey, The rod bends and whips, the line shrugs off water like a wet dog shaking, musically protesting the strain. And indeed Robert has made the paramount sterling effort, guided by his mentor, with beads of perspiration on his brow, Robert has brought it in to the landing net. Now Darren is not a fellow known to use expletives, but you could understand his position, for Robert now has a personal best greater than Darrens and has now also caught Queenie 27 pound, "hows about that then guys and gals" Darren looks like a man who has "lost a pound and found naff all" Robert is "as happy as deaf man going to his mother in laws" and applauds the self catering cottages and fishing. You can rely on Fishing in Devon to add that extra sparkle so Come fishing in Devon, Enjoy Devon fishing holidays, stay in stunning holiday cottages and fishing, selfcatering cottages and fishing, fishing holidays Devon.
by Simon Rogers
by Simon Rogers
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